Saturday, July 20, 2013

Cathedral Spires, Harney's Peak, and Little Devil's Tower (Custer StatePark and Black Elk National Forest, SD)

2013.07.02 - Custer State Park: 

Custer State Park was a must do on our Dakotas trip. Driving the Wildlife Loop, got us up close and personal with wild donkeys and roaming buffalos. It was the first time I had to move the car aside because a buffalo was strolling down the middle of the road. That was just the morning, we still had a good afternoon of hiking ahead of us.

At first, the only natural wonder I wanted to hike and explore was the Cathedral Spires. When we learned that a few miles down the trail was the highest point east of the Rocky Mountains, Harney's Peak, we couldn't pass it up. Lastly, it didn't hurt that the Little Devil's Tower climb and hike completed the trifecta.

Cathedral Spires:

From the start, we are impressed as we leave the Trail 4A trailhead. The spires at the trailhead are amazing and the Cathedral Spires in the distance enticing. The weather was gorgeous and our spirits high. Perfect day to be in the Black Hills.

Not far from the start, trees were trimmed and cut down. Possibly to make way for new growth and to slow down the Mountain Pine Beetle infestation that has caused serious deforestation to this lush landscape. In fact, it maybe the largest forest insect blight ever in North America as these little fellows introduced the blue stain fungus that blocks water and nutrient transport within the tree. In effect, killing the tree from the inside. 

Moving along, we knew there would be an elevation climb and soon we were stepping our way up. These rocks must surely water the lips of rock climbers. Me, I was enjoying the rocky dirt trail.

Near the intersection between the Cathedral Spires and the trail to Harney's Peak and Little Devil's Tower, we met a guy traveling from Minneapolis, MN. We exchanged stories about the area and gathered more intel. Turns out he was headed toward the Badlands the next day. Maybe our paths will cross again.

One thing the gentleman from the Twin Cities had right, the end is not as cool as the journey. As we witnessed at the end of Cathedral Spires trail. More sadness caused by the Mountain Pine Beetle. Still the walk in between the rock formations is breath taking. 

Harney's Peak:

Back at the intersection, we head toward trail 4. Trail 4 merges with Trail 3, Trail 7, and lastly Trail 9 on its way up to the Peak. It is always good to bring a good map and one can be found on the Custer State Park website.  No need to add more miles to a trek by getting lost.

Because Harney's Peak is the highest point East of the Rocky Mountains and South Dakota at 7,242 feet above sea level, we prepare ourselves for a gradual climb. This trek also tests our endurance and our ability to adopted to elevation above a mile high. We did great with both! Even had some great unobstructed views of the Cathedral Spires along the way. Awesome!

Where Trail 4 merges with Trail 3, we leave Custer State Park and enter Black Elk National Forest. Black Elk is is part of the Black Hills National Forest with over 13,000 acres. This area is considered sacred to the Sioux and is named after Black Elk, a Oglala Sioux holy man.

For the next 1/2 mile or so, the terrain is fairly flat and about the time the dirt changes to a gray glittery texture, we start to climb. It is a nice climb to get to where trail 7 merges with trail 9. A motto I repeat to myself is that every step is a step closer. Soon we will be at the top and then it will all be downhill from there.

We get to a sign that reads, 'Foot Traffic Only.' Isn't that true! The best places can only be gotten to by foot power! 

The top is a treat! Harney Peak Lookout, Dam, and Pumphouse was built in 1939. It was first used as a fire lookout tower with nothing more than a crate at the summit. Where we stood is also the site of Black Elk's great vision:

"I was standing on the highest mountain of them all, and round about beneath me was the whole hoop of the world, and while I stood there I saw more than I can tell and I understood more than I saw; for I was seeing in a sacred manner the shapes of all things in the spirit, and the shape of all shapes as they must live together like one being.'

The walk back was long and quiet as we reflected on our accomplishment. Going down is always hard, because my knee hasn't fully recovered from a prior injury. I have to be careful not to over-extend my knee, because I want to continue hiking to places as sacred as this.

At the intersection of Trail 4 and Trail 4A, we separated. There was last place for me to be, the Little Devil's Tower.
Little Devil's Tower:

As soon as I cutoff from Trail 4, I get an immediate impression I was hiking through Hell on Earth because of the open burnt area under an imposing blazing sun. It also didn't help that I was the only hiker on this trek at the moment. I began to question my sanity. Was I crazy to attempt the Trifecta today?

At the base, I question my motives again, yet I can't turn back. The whole time I climbed I leaned into the mountain for support. It is an almost straight up climb and I know it will be hell going down. At some point, blue arrows direct me around a corner. It is sort of eerie, but I followed.

I was lead up a narrow rock-filled corridor. Pretty much the rest of the way was by rock and hands. It was fun and cool at the same time! A deep hidden devilish grin grew with every step. 

At the top, Harney Peak can be seen and those hikers can be heard. Boy are they loud, but during their silence, it felt peaceful on the Tower. I enjoyed the breeze, found a cache, went to every corner to take photographs, and then prepared myself for the way down.

Coming down wasn't as bad I had expected, but I sure wish there was a slide. In retrospect, it wasn't that rough of an excursion, guess that is why they call it 'Little.' Just saying.

I walked 7.45 miles in a continuous 5 hours and 26 minutes averaging 43 minutes : 51 seconds per mile. Total elevation climbed was 1,944 feet.

Total Blogged Miles :  108.26.

No comments:

Post a Comment