Wonderland Trail-Part III (Mount Rainier, WA)

2013.07.30-Pyramid Creek Campground to Klapatache Campground (Day 4):

As long as day 3 seemed, we learned how fast we could cover flat land. However, day 4, while not as many miles, had us trekking over three ridges at over 1,000 feet each for a total elevation climb of about a mile without all the descending. On the west side of Rainier, the Wonderland Trail went up a ridge and then back down before climbing another ridge. It definitely would make one heck of a roller coaster ride, if there was one.

Another interesting fact about the west side of Mount Rainier is the amount of flies and mosquitos. Pyramid Creek gave us a slight introduction, but the word through the Hiker Grapevine was that Devils Dream campground was by far the worse. One set of hikers said they didn't bother to cook anything, just got inside their tent, zipped up, and ate a Cliff bar for dinner. The Paradise Hotel hikers said they skipped their reservation there to get to Pyramid Creek which was just 2 miles further. On our hike-by, we noticed Devils had the most sites than any other with 7 or 8. Which didn't really make sense since it was the less desirable. Like one of my teammates mentioned, you can't trust a place named 'Devils.'

A little over a mile up the trail, we come across a Patrol Cabin at Indian Henry's Hunting Ground. It is not manned with Rangers, instead there is a Mother with her children there. She told us this was her 5th time! They were headed a few miles up the road to South Puyallup River Campground, which is the campsite at the base of the ridge from ours. At the Patrol Cabin, we rested, ate some snacks, and I left another treasure for a passing hiker. A book about a flood that may have formed the surrounding area. I hope someone reads it and gains an education. My lesson here is that when carrying an iPad Mini that is battery efficient and I don't use very often, it is better to download the book, because it is lighter and easier to transport. 

Once we were well rested or the bugs became too much, we continued our ridge hoping. What happened next became a highlight in our adventure. It can almost be told through the voice of Bambi and her mom. Because a family of deer were hanging close to the trail. We paused as to not disturbed them and watched as they groomed each other and the children played. The young ones would jump from one side of the trail to another. Then when we started to walk, a doe and her fawn walked the trail in front of us for about a quarter to half mile. Yes, they just walked right in front of us. At one point, mom and baby got separated, we stepped back, and very soon they were reunited. I wanted to pet them and say you can trust us, but they have their right to keep a safe distance. I am not sure how that day could have gotten any better. 

From that point on, I was on a natural high for the rest of the day and then came the suspension bridge. Only one person can cross at a time and it is best to walk right down the center. You can look down or up or all around, but stay in the middle. Half way across, it may rock a little. No worries, just keep walking, everything will be alright. Of course, I had to go back to the middle without my pack to catch a glimpse of Mount Rainier. 
 

Now we were headed up our second ridge of the day. Going up 50 feet of elevation at a time really made the climb more manageable and it also felt like we could get over it quicker. To relate, think about the tallest building being about 2200 feet and our total climb that day being twice that with backpacks on. That sure is a confidence builder! 

What this also meant is that we probably smelled pretty bad. At least, we hoped we didn't smell as bad as the fellow we talked to after the suspension bridge, but it is quiet possible we smelled worse. This brings up hygiene and the tricky part of bathing in glacial water. But we figured out we can boil water and sure enough, our cleaning became more comfortable. Warm water cures stinky me on the trail.

At the base of the next ridge is South Puyallup River Campground, where the experienced mom and her family were staying for the night. We spotted them having a meal in chairs and were fascinated that they brought chairs with them. Our packs were overstuffed with items we needed or thought we needed, but they brought chairs. So jealous. 

Our next ridge climb was the one that brought us home for the night. However, this time it seemed like it just kept getting higher and higher. At a rest stop, a couple on a day hike passed us. Turns out, she did the Wonderland 19 years ago while 5 months pregnant. Then off they went flying over the ridge. 

The body is a fascinating work of art. I didn't bring any pants for our hike and for the most part didn't need any because while we walked up hill we got so warm that I was taking off layers regardless of the amount of snow around us. On this last ridge before camp, we even picked up some snow and rubbed it across our hot heads to cool us down. But while standing around in the chilly evening or morning, it would get down right cold. The lesson here is to stay in motion, even when it hurts. 

When we make it to camp we are amazed at the view. For my teammates, Klapatche Park is the best campsite because of the way Mount Rainier reflects off Aurora Lake. It also doesn't hurt that the water in the lake is warmer than the streams. Still cold by my standards, however warm enough for frogs to live. While sitting there looking up at the snowy giant, there is no doubt, this is beautiful!

Also staying here, were 4 men, who we played leap frog with part of the day. They were dressed in camouflage while sleeping under a larger A-Frame tent. I had a flashback to basic training. It did not look fun. Then again, neither were my Army Pop-UP Tent days.

Turning in for the night, I felt a sense of accomplishment that another hard day was in the history books. I still can't get over how much elevation we overcame that day. Imagine all the steps at Willis Tower, Empire State Building, and Reunion Area combined all together and then some.

Total Trail Miles hiked on Day 4: 13.20 miles (51.10 miles total)
Total Blogged miles: 174.27 miles.

2013.07.31-Klapatache Campground to Golden Lakes Campground(Day 5):

I woke up on Day 5 feeling pretty rested, but wanted to spend some solo time. While my teammates were getting their stuff together, I was fully packed and started the down hill hike to North Puyallup alone. It felt good going off on my own, but a little risky. Within 15 minutes, one of my teammates caught me and at North Puyallup all of us were together again. 

It was here that we met up with a young couple that were doing part of the Wonderland. They seemed pretty young and I am not sure I could let two young people of the opposite sex hike alone for that distance. But who am I to judge. It looked like they were having fun and that is all that counts. Life is too short to not have fun! 

Like other parts of the trail, the bridges over the springs and waterfalls came in different shapes and sizes. A few looked like a tree had fallen and the park rangers sliced it in half for footing adding some rails for stability. Other times the bridges were pretty and a work of engineering art. The good thing is we never fell in the treacherous ones and on some small ones, we got our shoes wet. 

We had a daily climb to get to Golden Lakes Campground, but nothing like the day before. Instead it was a mere 1500 feet, piece of cake. As a matter of fact, we got to camp in the early early afternoon. We debated about moving on or staying put and decided it was best to keep with our itinerary. Besides we had a great view of the lakes below. Another lesson, however, is that whenever a campground ends with lakes, it translates to bug pool. 

That evening there was a threat of rain with dark clouds that scared the bugs away, but soon passed. We went to see the sunset and talked with some kids that had just graduated high school and were about to embark on their college lives. They were so young and I was happy that they decided to spend time on the trail together before their lives go in separate directions. One was going to Lewis and Clark in Portland, which impressed me, because I am huge fan of those two explorers.

Before bed, we talked about the days to come. What we had left and what was left ahead of us. By the next day's end we will be going East and on the homestretch. We were beginning to sense the end.

Total Trail Miles hiked on Day 5: 7.80 miles (58.90 miles total)
Total Blogged miles: 182.07 miles.

Wonderland Trail-Part II (Mount Rainier, WA)

Toilet View at Indian Bar

2013.07.28-Indian Bar Campground to Maple Creek Campground (Day 2):

Coming off our first tough day of hiking combined with the coolness of the night, we get stirring around camp a little later than the day before. This gave all of us a chance to use the facilities. The toilet at Indian Bar must have the best view amongst all of the campsites. It pretty much is a box to sit on that looks over into Cowlitz Park. It is the considered the best place to relieve oneself on the trail.

After packing up, we head down to the creek for breakfast, some much needed hygiene, and one last dwelling in this vastness. This place seems very peaceful and spiritual to me. It was my favorite campsite because of the vulnerability I felt while there, very humbling.

Indian Bar

Leaving Indian Bar was sad for me, but we still had a lot more trail to see. Since, the night before we descended to camp and camp is in a valley. This means we only had one way to go to get out of the valley. UP! Nobody said it would be easy and if it were, then everybody would be doing it. :)

Speaking of easy, on the stretch down to Nickel Creek, we started to meet a range of individuals. The first was a guy that was hustling uphill and was finishing today at White River. Turns out he was doing it in 4 days! Next we met a couple of couples that were headed toward Indian Bar for the evening of which we exchanged intel about the trail ahead and the preferred sites. Between Nickel Creek and Box Canyon we meet a dad with his son and daughter that got lost and added an extra 3 miles to their trek. We chatted for a bit, laughed with them some, and then left them in the hopes they get to their destination in time. If they made it, they would have been well rewarded by its beauty.

Box Canyon Picnic Area was a treat in that there is a restroom with flushing toilets and water that doesn't need to be filtered. Here we also got rid of our trash and I left a game that I knew we weren't going to play. Within minutes, a mom and her children looked it over and took it. I hope they have hours and hours of fun. The lesson for me was that sometimes rest is more important than entertainment.

Another lesson, I learned at Box Canyon is that 100 feet really looks deep, as a stream flows between two rocks below the bridges we crossed. But it really isn't that much against the totality of our everyday hikes. In essence, I would rather climb 100 feet than fall 100 feet.

The trek from Box Canyon to Maple Creek was 2 miles and we arrived in camp with plenty of time to soak our feet in the cold cold water. That numbing feeling takes the pain away much like hitting your head takes the knee aches away. There was also an open area we used as our dining room and kitchen. With the stream nearby it was easy to get water to boil and drink.

Earlier, we saw our California Boys come into camp and with them came another fellow. Kevin is his name and as it turns out, he skipped his Nickel Creek reservation to get a little closer to his final destination, Longmire. There were only 4 camps at Maple Creek with each getting filled during the evening. We offered him a spot early on, but I don't think we were his first choice, yet before lights out, he found a nice patch of ground to set up his tent in our site. It was a better option than the rocks around the dining room.

Total Trail Miles hiked on Day 2: 9.80 miles (24.20 miles total)
Total Blogged miles: 147.37 miles.

2013.07.29-Maple Creek Campground to Pyramid Creek Campground (Day 3):

Day 3 was a challenge in itself because of the distance we had to cover. But if there was any relief to our day it would be our visit to Longmire. Longmire had two purposes. First, we shipped our food cache there for the next few days and second, we were told Longmire Inn served excellent fish and chips with Diet Pepsi. That was motivating enough, however we still had miles and miles to go before our sit down food fest.

Like the day before, we started our day with a climb. In this first stretch, we passed Sylvia Falls and Martha falls. Two hidden gems that many tourists will not see. We also found ourselves resting along the side of the road then climbing more elevation and resting along the same road again. We also found also resting at Reflection Lakes where Mount Rainier mirrored itself in the water. It was pretty funny when we walked past some tourist and told them about a better spot and they asked if they could walk to it. We just said sure, it is only 500 feet away!


From this point to Longmire, tourists were everywhere. Most times they kept to themselves, but the few interactions seem cold and distant. It was the other backcountry hikers we conversed most with. They were the best, as we shared a lot about our journeys, experiences, and pain.

Narada and Carter Falls were two other falls along the way. With Narada being the more popular because it was long flowing and beautiful. There are viewpoints from the top near the road to the Wonderland Trail about 100 feet below. We felt out of place here with all the clean and foreign tourists. At Carter falls, we met a couple of ladies that were out for a walk who were confused about their surrounding, but I didn't hold that against them. Rather, when they step in front of me and I had to get around them because of their leisure pace. Even so that is not enough, except they saw me and blocked my way regardless. Just mean!

When we get to the Carter Falls Trail head we knew we were close to Longmire as it was only 1.8 miles away. While we had our packs off, a couple came strolling up the trail with their backpacks on looking awfully refreshed. Of course we talked about our travels to this point and they told us they were going to bunk at Paradise that night and unwind to some libations on a warm bed. That sounded nice. We asked how long it took them to get here from Longmire and they said 40 minutes. The race was on! As soon as our conversation was over, we put on our packs and had a time to beat. We did it in 30 minutes.

Longmire met every expectation. At the restaurant, we were offered a corner table where we stacked our packs. We must of looked rough and hungry because we got the attention of the couple next to us from South Carolina. When their fish and chips were served we were sold and each ordered the same. I joked with the waiter when our table didn't have silverware. I said we had our own. They accommodated us with a pitcher of Diet Pepsi and we had him refill it another three times. After the main course, I split wildberry custard a la mode. Anything else and we would have been bordering on out right gluttony.

After our recharging meal, we walked over to the accompanying store where I bought a postcard, signed it, stamped it, and sent it to a good friend. It had been a few days off the grid and had to make reassurances.

Last, we had to get our food shipment. Turns out we estimated we would eat more granola and trail mix than we did. From the first day, when my breakfast pouch lasted until lunch, we knew we would be carrying extra weight. From the 5 gallon barrel, we only took the items that were high in protein and carbohydrates, like sausages, beef jerky, cheese, and tortillas. We left the rest to any starving hiker.

After 3 hours of rest and relaxation, we knew we had to reach our camp 3.5 miles away with a small elevation climb. Taking one step after another, we were on our way again. By now, we were becoming experts in reading topographic maps and recognizing natural landmarks. Other than having a Garmin GPS, we had paper maps and maps on my iPhone and iPad mini. It would be a bad thing if we got lost, but it made it easy to find Pyramid Creek Campground. As it turned out, our California boys passed it up by a quarter mile. Pyramid Creek sits between two creeks, once we past the first we knew to look for it and if we got to the next, we went too far.

That night making camp felt good, but we knew the next day would be a challenge on its own.

Total Trail Miles hiked on Day 3: 13.70 miles (37.90 miles total)
Total Blogged miles: 161.07 miles.